Winslow Farm Pond Management Information

A pond is a small, shallow body of fresh, standing water in which relatively quiet water and extensive plant growth throughout are common characteristics. The basic difference between a pond and a lake is depth. A pond is shallow with light penetrating to the bottom throughout the pond. The natural order of things is for the pond to fill from materials washing in from the surrounding land and eventually become a terrestrial environment. Water movements in ponds are minimal because of the small areas involved and, in many, protection from the wind by the surrounding environment. Stagnation of the water in the bottom levels is common. Because of the shallow depth and large expanse of surface as compared with volume, pond waters tend to follow the general trends of temperature of the surrounding air. Aquatic organisms usually have narrow ranges of tolerance for temperature. Turbidity refers to the condition of a body of water that contains suspended material such as clay or silt particles, small dead organisms or their parts, or small living plants and animals. Turbidity within a pond may change rapidly due to rains. The shallow depths of ponds usually allow enough light so that plants occupy the entire bottom, as well as large populations of phytoplankton at all levels. Oxygen content varies according to the local conditions (e.g., depth, protection from the wind). Over sandy bottoms of younger ponds abundant dissolved oxygen prevails. Water over vegetation has a moderate amount of dissolved oxygen at least during the day. In older ponds the lowermost water has an oxygen supply during the spring months, but during the summer the water is devoid of oxygen. Oxygen supply in the water goes down at night. Aquatic animals have narrow ranges of tolerance for oxygen and are very sensitive to reduced oxygen. Therefore, organic pollution, which reduces oxygen levels because of increased bacteria activity, is especially damaging. Pond vegetation tends to be arranged in zones more or less parallel to the shore line. In general, these are usually the marginal zone of emergent plants, the zone of floating plants, and the zone of submerged plants. In older and more productive ponds, algal growths often become conspicuous. Insects usually are the most abundant and have the greatest diversity of animal species. Of the other invertebrates, the protozoa, rotifers, crustaceans, and snails are most important. Among the vertebrates, amphibians (e.g., frogs) are considered by some as the most important group. Fish may be reduced to minor densities (except in larger, permanent ponds) compared to lakes. Pond animals, particularly those of temporary ponds, are largely composed of species which may have a part of their life cycles out of water (e.g., flying insects). Surface-film animals and those that come out to the surface for breathing are often abundant. The diversity of pond animals is variable and may change greatly from year to year. Healthy ponds have a natural capacity to cleanse themselves. Each pond is an individual ecosystem with a food chain of organisms that assimilate the incoming nutrients. The food chain moves nutrients up from the simplest single-celled bacteria, to people catching fish. This natural system works very well without any pond aeration system to improve pond water quality, keeping the ecosystem in balance until excessive nutrient inflow overwhelms the ability of the ecosystem to assimilate the nutrients. Once this occurs, the excessive nutrient levels adversely affect the aesthetic qualities of the pond by stimulating the growth of nuisance algae and plant life. Pond algae (algae blooms) can quickly turn a pond “pea soup” green or cause the formation of “smelly” floating algae mats. The dead mass of vegetation accumulates on the bottom of the pond adding to the mass of organic sediments already there. Herbicides and algaecides do more harm to water quality than they do good. They sometimes cause fish kills and add toxic substances to the water and sediments. So it is highly recommended to use the latest pond aerators and proper pond aeration systems for maintaining water quality. Although dredging can deepen a lake, making it more difficult for submerged vegetation to grow, dredging does nothing for water quality, nothing for algae, little to reduce odor and nothing to prevent fish kills. For sand, silt and all but organic sediment, dredging is the best and only method. We know of no other method of getting rid of inorganic sediment than dredging. Yet, according to the USEPA, dredging does nothing to improve water or fish quality and to clean lake bottom. On the contrary, it mixes phosphorus and nitrogen and other pollutants from the muck into the water column. Dredging does nothing to reduce algae. For these reasons, the EPA has issued criteria for dredge water that is re-introduced into lakes, to limit the amount of pollutants that mix with lake surface waters. PeneCoreTM is a product that was developed as an economical way to reduce the amount of erosion in a watershed, and thus reduce the amount of sediment accumulation in a water body. This product is an environment friendly enzyme based soil additive. This inexpensive product softens the soil in the watershed so the rain can soak into the ground instead of scouring the soil down into the lake. It can be used to prevent erosion of clay from watersheds into lakes, streams and rivers. It has been used successfully along highways to prevent erosion of road banks. To keep a pond healthy and increase its life expectancy, continual water flow is needed. Not all ponds or garden pools are located near a spring or brook, however. One of the simplest ways to maintain water movement artificially is through aeration, using surface aerating equipment such as diffusion aerators, which function underwater. Surface aerators oxygenate the water by circulating cold water at the bottom of a pond and bringing it to the surface. The water is propelled into the air in a fountainlike spray, a water jet or a splashing or gurgling pattern. Such aeration gives ponds healthy levels of dissolved oxygen, which help a pond to thrive. There is also an aesthetic value to surface aerators. Many of the spray patterns available will enchance or dramatize the look of a pond while adding the soothing sound of splashing water. Diffusion aerators, such as compressors or blowers, oxygenate water from below the surface without any electrical hookup underwater. They inject air into a pond with an air hose, which may be electrically hooked up outside the pond. This setup may be preferable if people plan to swim or fish in the pond and there is a concern about a possible short circuit. Diffusion aerators reduce algae without chemicals, aid in circulating pond water and help to decompose sediments. Pond Aeration Windmills 100% WIND POWER. Aerates pond from BOTTOM to TOP. Circulates stagnant bottom water. Forces hydrogen sulfide gases to the surface allowing the harmful ammonia & nitrates to escape into the atmosphere, ridding them from your pond. Breaks down decayed plants, animal bacteria and toxic waste. Results: clearer water rejuvenated with fresh smelling oxygen. Our same Diffuser is used in many Sewage Treatment Plants. Non-aerated ponds are 1/3 stagnant, making a multiplying environment for weeds & algae. Fish saver during winter and summer. Keeps an opening in the ICE during the coldest Indiana winters to allow sun light in and gases out while it adds a constant supply of fresh oxygen. During hot sizzling summers the oxygen in a pond is depleted rapidly, your windmill will force fresh life saving oxygen to your suffocating fish as it removes algae fertilizing nitrogen gases. Sometimes algaecides are recommended to control algae and underwater vegetation, but these chemicals are detrimental to fish and other wildlife. From an environmental standpoint, a more natural method of algae control is preferred. Careful choices of landscaping material around a pond -- stones, shrubs, groundcovers or sod -- limit the amount of surface runoff entering the pond. When combined with a filter and an aerator, this technique can extend a pond's life. If the pond is small enough, pond liners may also improve water quality. Pond Maintenance Maintaining Your Pond Regularly There are seasonal procedures you should do to your pond besides maintaining it regularly. Regular pond maintenance will ensure the life of your pond. The better treatment of fish and plants and will give you a much better chance of clear, balanced water. Summer Pond Maintenance: Clean out the filter and pump regularly. Check it at least once a week. Add water from evaporation in intervals. You don't want any extremes to bother the balance in temperature or chemical levels in your pond by adding a lot of water at once. Prune your plants. Add floating aquatic plants . Dead head plants regularly. If you spot leaf mildew, remove the infected parts to stop it from spreading. Introduce new fish gradually. Get rid of bad algae' and blanketweed. Since algae, both beneficial and detrimental, suck the oxygen out of the water at night, make sure you use an aerator or waterfall to add oxygen to the water. Fall Pond Maintenance: Remove pump and filter if you do not have fish, plus any decorative features, like waterfalls or misters, which may be damaged by freezing. Add a pond de-icer or heater. Keep the pond as leaf-free as you can. Cut back plants, add mulch to border plants and transfer frail plants indoors. Transfer applicable fish inside if it gets cold. Winter (for Climates with Snow) Pond Maintenance: Make sure you have a pond de-icer, at bare minimum, if you are keeping fish in the pond over the winter. Methane gas can build-up and get into the water supply and then kill the fish. Do not feed fish. If you haven't removed filter and pump, you may want to do so now. Get rid of any dead plants, leaves or debris from the pond. Throw a couple of tennis balls in the pond to alleviate pressure on the structure of your pond when the ice hits. Check water level regularly in case of leaks or evaporation. Remove the surface snow off the pond as much as possible to allow the light to get in. Spring Pond Maintenance: Take out the de-icer or heater. Put the filter and pump back in and turn them on. Start feeding the fish again once the temperature reaches 10-degrees Celsius. Check the water level. If your fish were in the pond for the winter, add water in intervals to prevent the temperature or the balance of the water from changing at once. If you had your fish indoors, add water and balance the water before putting them back in. Keep an eye on the algae. If the water is black, remove at least 1/3 of the water and replace, after getting rid of leaves and any other decomposed organic material. Fix up the border area, including pruning shrubs and plants. Check the pond netting and repair as necessary. Pond Pumps Pumping the Algae Out of Your Pond One statement to remember with ponds is, Before it's green you have to clean. There are two ways to keep your water pristine and keep a limit on algae (microscopic phytoplankton). The first is to buy a large pump (and there is never anything wrong with buying a larger pump than you need) and the other is to keep it clean. Advice? Buy the largest and best pump you can afford. It will take less cleaning, resulting in less of your time, and it will create a better living environment for fish and pond plants. In order to maintain proper flow, circulation and aeration of your pond water, and to keep clean water moving into the pond, you will definitely require a good pump. There are four ways to filter your pond: mechanically, biologically, chemically and using UV sterilization. Mechanical filtration removes particles from the water, it does not remove algae. Biological filtration allows algae to grow on the surface area and the biological filter (like fish excrement) breaks it down. The addition of chemicals may kill unwanted algae. However, most ponders try to avoid this route due to environmental concerns. UV clarifiers not only kill algae, but it also kills pathogens that could give infections to fish. Essentially, there are two different pump options you can choose from: a waterfall (aquafall) or a submersible pump. Your choice will likely depend on whether you prefer the soothing sound and look of a waterfall and your budget. When shopping for a pump, you will need to get the right size for your pond. Pumps are measured according to their pumping capacity, either in gallons per hour (GPH) or gallons per minute (GPM). Your pump should be able to pump at least half of the pond's water volume per hour. If you happen to have a very high waterfall, it might be wise to have separate pumps for the waterfall and filter. This is because you will require more power for the waterfall, but the same pump might be too powerful for the filter. If you have an extremely large pond, a gas-powered pump would be the most practical. For the best energy efficiency, a magnetic drive pump would be the most practical. Pond pumps are usually priced between $70 and $380, depending on the size and power your pond requires. Pond Filters Keeping Your Pond Filtered from Bacteria & Debris A pond filter is required to clean and filter the pond's water. If the pond contains any fish, such as Koi or goldfish, more filtration will be required. A combination of mechanical and biological pond filtration makes for a good pond filter. Biological pond filtration breaks down fish waste and organic matter using beneficial bacteria. Mechanical filtration captures particles in a physical filter for removal during the pond's cleaning. A good pond filter should be able to achieve both and should also be compatible with UV clarifiers for algae control. An out-of-pond filter allows easier convenience for cleaning and maintenance on your pond. Depending on your choice of filter, some must be installed specifically at the highest point of water discharge. Other filters, like pressurized pond filters, can be installed at any level because the force of the water exiting the filter is equal to the force of water going in. Essentially, this gives you two options for pond filters, submersible and biological. Lava rock filter systems are advantageous for fish ponds. The porous lava rock gets covered with the good type of bacteria and breaks down ammonia. You need to use quite a lot of lava rock for it to work properly. You can make your own out of a large drum. You can also use barbecue lava rock, but look for the largest rocks you can find so it's easier to clean. Many pond filters come with the recommended pump as a package, but filters can also be purchased singly. Your garden pond filter should filter half the pond volume every hour at a minimum. Garden ponds that are exposed to the sun for more than 6 hours a day, and Koi ponds, should have a slightly larger filter. A prefilter is also a requirement which is installed at the beginning of the water filter cycle. Filters vary in price depending on the size and power you require. They usually range from $280 and $1000, depending on the water volume in gallons. But they can get up to $2,500 for ponds with up to 25,000 gallons of water. Pond Repair Maintenance is the Key to Maintaining Your Pond Occasionally you will need to top up the water level in your garden pond as a result of evaporation. If you find that you're constantly adding water to your garden pond, you may have a leak. Garden ponds typically leak as a result of one of the following: Plumbing leaks - a leak in your pond's exterior plumbing can usually be determined by wet or damp soil around the area the plumbing is installed. Punctured or sagging pond liners - rocks and debris can shift your liner out of place or pierce through your pond's liner. Water wicking - occurs when surrounding plants are dipping or drinking from your pond's water. Leaks are the only repair job that should be handled by the pond owner. Pond liner leaks are easily patched with a splice or seal kit. These peel-and-stick kits, which are kind of like duct tape, are the most common form of liner patches. Most pond repair kits are universal. When using a pond repair kit simply follow the manufacturer's instructions. Garden ponds have to be emptied and cleaned before being patched. In many cases, ponds with severe pond leaks or cracks will have to be relined with a new liner. Expandable Foam is the best way to repair a crack in a concrete or rock garden pond. The expandable foam is sprayed in between rocks to better allow the water to flow through a stream or waterfall. Expandable foam is also an ideal way to block gaps between rocks in order to force water to flow over rocks or in certain directions. Any maintenance that needs to be done to the pond's pump or filter equipment should be done by a professional and covered by the warranty. That said, it is your responsibility to maintain the filter. During the hardest season of the year it is recommended that you clean them once a week, to ensure debris and algae aren't clogging the system. This will ensure your water has a better chance of being balanced as well. Skim out all leaves and debris regularly. This will ensure your filter stays in full functioning order. Pond repair can be nearly eliminated with the proper pond maintenance .

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